Each time I’ve visited Vietnam, I haven’t wanted to leave. It is a country full of beautiful countryside, amazing cuisine, rich history and charming people.

Tune in for a quick history lesson.

Vietnam was a country forbidden to tourists in the 1960s and 70s. Shortly after the end of the Vietnam War, up to the early 1990s, the only way to get into the country was with an escort. In 1990, Vietnam saw around 250,000 tourists visit during the whole year. Today, that number sits around four million, with more travellers visiting each year.

There are still remnants of war everywhere. It is something that is important to respect and at the same time, it is moving. You can still walk down the street and see men and women walking injured from war, with missing limbs or burns.

The effect of Agent Orange, the chemical herbicide that was dumped by the United States on massive areas of forest, still ravages the population. By altering genetic makeup, it produced birth defects and cancers, with stillborns and disability all too common in some areas.

So, being such a fresh tourist destination in comparison to most other countries, it is great for the modern traveller, someone who isn’t afraid to navigate their own way through the country.

On my travels to Vietnam over the past few years, I have seen the country in different ways. The first time, I travelled North to South, encouraged by Top Gear’s Vietnam Special.

This was a perfect way to see the country for the first time and here’s how you should do it:

First, start in Hanoi. This place typifies Vietnam. The streets are crowded, an assault to your senses. The city is bustling with activity.

The best tours that I’ve had of Vietnam are student run. With this type of tour, there are no fees. You deal with young, energetic guides who have great English skills and you get to see things that you wouldn’t normally with traditional style tours. The advantage for the guides, who are studying degrees in tourism or communication, is that they see great improvements in their English. They also get to be a part of large, respected organisations and make connections with people from all over the globe.

I chose a group called Hanoi Kids, who sent out two of their finest guides to show me around the city. One of my guides, Huyen-Anh Phan (Hoanh Binô), says there are a few things that you can’t skip.

“Well it’s the food right!

“The experiences foreigners can have as well like crossing the streets.”

She also suggested the idea of travelling towards the North to more rural villages like Sa Pa.

“It’s really worth a try.

“You’ll meet people from different minorities and ethnic groups. They wear different costumes from what we do,” said Ms Phan.

Not only can you get some great food there, but on the International Corner, you can sit with locals and sample cheap beer. Each beer costs about 4000 VND, which equals about 20 cents. What that translates to is stumbling back to the hotel feeling pretty tipsy for about a dollar fifty. Not bad.

My Hanoikids guides spent two days with me, visiting places of worship, dining on multiple styles of cuisine and shopping until we couldn’t walk anymore.

Following a stay up North, it is definitely worth taking a cruise on Ha Long Bay, provided the weather is warm and relatively dry. The views are breathtaking and it is of stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of city life.

For those who don’t mind roughing it a bit, take a sleeper (overnight) train when you travel south, rather than flying. I took one from Hanoi to Hue and let’s just say it was interesting. I would suggest opting for the most spacious room possible. I’m just on 6 foot and my legs easily touched the end of the bed, as I was rocked to sleep by the violent lurch of the train. All in the experience!

Once arriving in Hue, just explore.

The city is one of the most war torn towns I have ever seen, but it is rich in culture and spectacular stories. Travelling through now peaceful temples riddled with bullet holes, you can picture the hardship that must have been.

I also couldn’t go past a good Pho. This noodle and broth dish is well known globally, but it is difficult to get right. Here, I had it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It left me looking for excuses to sneak in extra meals!

From Hue, fly to Da Nang and travel to Hoi An. If you only go to one place, make it Hoi An. When I returned to Vietnam last year, this place was on my hotlist.

In my opinion, this is the most amazing city in Vietnam. Packed with Parisian-style cobbled streets, famous restaurants, 5 star hotels and festivals all year round, it is the cultural heart of the country.

To those culinary experts out there, you need to visit Morning Glory, or as recommended when I had a chance encounter with Luke Nguyen, Bale Well.

At Bale Well, you’re rushed to your seat and smacked in the face with their flavourful specialty- satay barbeque pork, vegetables and crunchy spring rolls that with some DIY help, are transformed into a glorious combination of juices and textures.

With a full stomach, head to the markets in the area. I’ve found some great places to get my custom made suits, shirts and shoes made. Try a few and you’ll become a life-long loyal customer!

Note: Bartering is an important part of the buying process. When you are purchasing multiple items, combine them together and negotiate the total. If the price is too high for you, walk away. The seller will always call you back if they can do better!

When day turns to night, see the stunning Full Moon Lantern Festival. You’ll need to time your trip to be there on the 14^th day of the lunar cycle. Buy a colourful lantern and let it float down the river. It’s mesmerising and unforgettable.

Finish your journey with a few days in Saigon in the south. Lose yourself in the labyrinth of markets in the city’s centre, or get your musical fix in a whole street dedicated to guitar making.

“Saigon is a great place for travellers because there’s so many things happening all at once, and many things to do, like explore history with museums or fine arts galleries or go shopping at local or tourist hot spots.

“Last time I was there we went to Suôi Tiên Theme Park which is like a Wet n Wild theme park, except instead of all cartoons it’s based on Buddhist culture,” said Lan Nguyen. She lives in Springvale, but moved from Saigon when she was young. She visits the city every few years to see her extended family.

Whatever you do, make sure you visit the Majestic Hotel and have a cold one watching the sunset, just as the American journalists did during the Vietnam War. Saigon has undoubtedly changed in recent years, but there’s one aspect that will always remain – the wanderlust of the traveller.

By Josh Timewell